sfakianespites - cheese pie from Sfakia

(my friend calls these Cretan quesadillas)!

I couldn’t tell you what I did three days ago, but ask me about a food memory, and I’ll give you every last detail. Take sfakianes pites, for example—I remember the first time I tried one as if it were three days ago. It was 2007, and I was 16 years old, fresh off a 16-kilometer trek through the breathtaking Samaria Gorge in Crete. After hours under the blazing sun, you’d think I’d settle for a PB&J or a melted protein bar from my pack—but the Cretans had something far better waiting for me.

Post-hike and post-dip in the sea, I wandered into one of the few coastal tavernas in Agia Roumeli, a quiet village nestled in the Sfakia region, and ordered my first sfakianes pita. These delicate, cheese-filled pies—or as a friend jokingly calls them, “Cretan quesadillas”—are a specialty of Sfakia, a rugged and stunning corner of southern Crete. That bite—thinly rolled dough encasing creamy cheese, pan fried and drizzled with honey—was the ultimate reward after a long day on the trail.

It took me ten years to learn to make them myself. For something with just a handful of simple ingredients—flour, olive oil, vinegar, tsikoudia (a local spirit), and cheese—it felt intimidating. To ensure I got it right, I reached out to my friend Georgia Tsoutsounis, whose family is from Sfakia. Georgia and her mom, Nitsa, walked me through the process. They taught me the traditional technique: gently pressing the stuffed dough with your hands until it becomes almost translucent—a task that demands patience and precision. The key is getting the dough thin enough without tearing it or letting too much cheese spill out—though a little cheese spill through can and will happen!

Once the dough and cheese are rolled into thin discs about the size of a dinner plate, you simply pan-fry them for a couple of minutes on each side until golden and crisp. The finishing touch is plenty of honey on top—preferably Cretan honey.

If you ever find yourself in Sfakia, don’t miss out on this incredible regional specialty. Until then, give my recipe below a try. It’s as close as you’ll get to the real thing without hopping on a plane or trekking down a gorge. Trust me, one bite, and you’ll never forget it.

Ingredients (Makes 12–16 pites)
400g (3 cups) all-purpose flour (plus extra for dusting)
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup (240ml) water (add more if needed)
4 tablespoons (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon white vinegar
2 tablespoons (30ml) tsikoudia (or substitute with ouzo or vodka)
400g (14 oz) soft mizithra cheese* (learn how to make your own cheese HERE)
Extra virgin olive oil, for frying
Plenty of honey, for drizzling